Nightcap design

I tend to break 16th century English monochrome designs into 5 basic "families". The most commonly recognized are:

*The curving vines;

*Bands, often containing the curving vines, often on shifts and shirts;

*"Lozenge" patterns, in which the motifs are set into rhombus/diamond shaped areas (and in at least one example, hexagonal);

*"Diaper" repeating patterns- one or two motifs repeated at regular intervals throughout the entirety of the piece;

*"Free" embroidery- assorted monochrome motifs, placed both regularly and sporadically throughout the piece. (This is seen once we move into the 17th century pieces- it may be transitional from Elizabethan monochrome towards the later crewel work).

The nightcap is the second piece I am making towards attempting to achieve an "Expert" ranking in the East Kingdom's Embroiderers Guild, the Keepers of Athena's Thimble. Along with the shift, I'm doing a man's nightcap, and I plan to do a coif with a diapered pattern. These three items will represent 3 of the major families of English monochrome.

For this nightcap, I wanted to use some of my old favorites, but also play with some designs I haven't used before. I also attempted to make slightly more "masculine" motifs- the husband requested "no butterflies" (although we DO see them regularly on the extant nightcaps.)

I used borage, roses, peas, pomegranates, and honeysuckles again. I added more leaves, pears, and grapes. I used more birds; I included bugs of all kinds; and I incorporated a frog, squirrels, turtle, cat, and an elephant. The turtle, cat, elephant, and frog were taken from textile T.88-1925 at the V&A Museum. This wonderful piece is a bunch of assorted animals inked onto linen, thought to be for embroidery. I was so happy to use the elephant- while struggling to fill one void of space, I asked what animal he would like on it. The squirrels were taken from a man's nightcap at the Manchester City Galleries- nightcap 1959.271. It's hard to see online- the black silk animals have disintegrated, leaving only the outlines behind. I was fortunate to spend time in the study rooms this summer, and have many up close pictures where the outlines are visible.

I will be transferring the design tomorrow, using a lightbox. Although I did get a pounce kit, I may use that on the cuffs of the shift. It seems to be a more time-consuming method, since it involves multiple steps- first pricking, then pouncing, then inking. So the lightbox transfer allows me the most "can't wait to get started" gratification. This project is serving as a break from the shift, which although lovely, is rather repetitive in a large space.

I will be working the motifs in a black silk stem stitch, and possibly trying actual teeny-tiny speckling as filler. I will be checking in with the extant pieces for reference photos. I want to do the stem in plaited braid in a gilt passing thread, and the husband has already been asking about spangles. (I should have put a peacock in the design!)

Wow, been a long time...

My apologies for being so neglectful! I moved in August, and am working a new position at my school, so embroidery has been on the back burner.

Both sleeves are now done on the shift- so only the torso and cuffs and collar to go!

I also am in the process of inking the design for my husbands nightcap- Pics this evening, with more info on the design and motifs, plus plans for embroidering.